Great Britain is small, and Scotland only makes up a part of it at that. But
what it lacks in square miles is more than made up for by a culture
and identity that go a lot deeper than the occasional sighting of
bagpipes and kilts. And nowhere is this understood better than in
the World Heritage Site of Edinburgh, on Scotland's eastern coast.
For a start you have its incredible location, on the edge of a huge
loch and surrounded by volcanic hills. Then you have the outstanding
architecture dating back centuries, the magnificent castle standing
proud in the middle, the thriving arts and entertainment scene,
a rather turbulent royal past, and an undoubtedly vibrant and pulsating
present. Unsurprisingly this draws in visitors from afar, giving
a warm, cosmopolitan feel to the place - but really, who can blame
them for wanting to be immersed in this captivating, charming city.
Climate
The climate in Edinburgh is best from May to September, but
whenever you go, you're likely to see both sun and rain. In summer,
daylight hours are long, and the evenings seem endless. In winter,
it's cold and daylight hours are short, but with so much going on,
Edinburgh is still worth visiting. Note that the city becomes impossibly
crowded during the main festival period - August to early September,
and Hogmanay (around 1 January) - so make reservations well ahead
of time if you plan to visit then.
City sights
Studded with volcanic hills, Edinburgh has an incomparable location
on the southern edge of the enormous Firth of Forth. The Old Town,
with its crowded tenements and bloody past, stands in contrast to
the orderly grid of the New Town with its disciplined Georgian buildings.
Most of the city's sights are contained within these two districts.
The largely medieval Royal Mile, running down from Edinburgh Castle
- which, perched atop its black, volcanic crag, dominates the central
area - to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, is the Old Town's spine.
In the New Town, Princes St, though not so architecturally inspiring,
is Edinburgh's chief thoroughfare and one of the world's most spectacular
shopping streets. To the north of the centre, Leith, Edinburgh's
main port, has survived a period of decline to become a fashionable
area of pubs and restaurants. Portobello to the east is where Edinburgh's
citizens spend time on the beach when the weather is warm enough.
To the west, medieval South Queensferry sits in the shadow of the
two large bridges that span the Firth of Forth. To the south, near
Holyrood Park, is picturesque Duddingston.
Nights out
Inevitably, Edinburgh's nightlife is at its best during the
Festival, which can make the other 49 weeks of the year seem like
an anticlimax. However, at any time the city has plenty to offer,
especially in the realm of theatre and music.
The club scene is lively, with some excellent venues hosting a
changing selection of one-nighters. In the bigger venues, you may
find different clubs taking place on each floor. Most of the city-centre
clubs stay open until around 3am. You can normally hear live jazz,
folk and rock every evening in one or other of the city's pubs.
The city has permanent venues large enough to host large touring
orchestras and ballet companies; elsewhere you can also uncover
a lively comedy club and a couple of excellent art-house cinemas.
Edinburgh has a dynamic gay culture, for years centred round the
top of Leith Walk and Broughton Street, where the first gay and
lesbian centre appeared in the 1970s. Since the start of the 1990s,
more and more gay enterprises, especially cafés and nightclubs,
have moved into this area, now dubbed the "Pink Triangle".
The best way to find out what's on is to pick up a copy of The
List , a fortnightly listings magazine covering both Edinburgh and
Glasgow (£1.95). Alternatively, get hold of the Edinburgh Evening
News , which appears daily except Sunday: its listings column gives
details of performances in the city that day, hotels and bars included.
Activities
Favorite outdoor venues include Holyrood Park, Meadow Park and
Bruntsfield Links. The chilly waters of the Firth of Forth are good
for sailing but not so pleasant for swimming - look for an indoor
alternative.
Special events
They don't call Edinburgh the festival city for nothing. The
peak party time of the year is August, when the sun warms into something
worthy of the name, the city explodes with arts events, and the
streets fill with a cosmopolitan melange of visitors high on a heady
mix of culture and single malt. If you're hardy enough to brave
the Scottish winter, you'll be rewarded by the fullest-bore New
Year celebrations you're ever likely to see.
The highlight of Scotland's calendar is the Edinburgh International
Festival, held every August. Since its inception in 1947, it has
grown into one of the world's largest and most important arts festivals.
The Fringe Festival began unofficially at the same time and grew
in tandem to become the largest such event in the world. Over 500
amateur and professional groups present every possible kind of avant-garde
performance in venues all around the city. Also held in the same
period is the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which takes place on the
Esplanade of Edinburgh Castle. The show is an extravaganza of daredevil
displays, regimental posturing and swirling bagpipes and ends with
a single piper playing a lament on the battlefields. Hogmanay, the
Scottish celebration of the New Year, is another major fixture in
Edinburgh's festival calendar with concerts, street parties and
a massive bonfire on Calton Hill. There's also the frenzy of other
international fests: Edinburgh International Jazz and Blues Festival
in July-August, Edinburgh International Book Festival in August,
Edinburgh International Film Festival and a whole lot more in between.
Airport transfers
Each year, more than 5 million passengers use Edinburgh
Airport's single terminal. Located 16 kilometers (10 miles) west
of Scotland's capital, the airport provides easy access to main
highways. Regular coach service to the city center and a dedicated
taxi service is available, with travel time averaging half an hour.
More than 20 airlines connect Edinburgh to about 45 destinations
worldwide.
Useful Websites
www.edinburghguide.com
www.edinburgh.org
www.edinburgh.gov.uk |
